by Anne and Bertille (France)

Polatkhan

Highlights

Polatkhan in Uzbekistan means �main steel�. Legend tells that Genghis Khan sought for years this range green wedged in Tian Sian, at the crossroads of mountains of northern Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan to the east and wild south-east Tajikistan . An oasis of greenery which produces a flower 2800m above sea level locally called Golden root or RADIOLA, which was mixed with steel, producing the strongest swords of the known world. For us, it will forever be "the plateau", a site only attained by the toughest people in the effort, after three days of (serious) walking.

Population: 6

Viola. Our Russian Linda Lemay. Teaches English between songs and mountain hikes. Whole character in tone as in the generosity and heart, as shown when the big farewell finally happened. When you look at Viola singing, you want to have a camera and you easily imagine her at 20: Soviet hippie atmosphere (weird association I must admit), in the large sportshall on the edge of cotton fields where all trimed and hid to smoke cigarettes (Viola this is only for poetry. I know you can�t stand this vice!) and play cards .

Andrey, best instructor in the world. 1500 treks, and as many tasty stories in the (Sh� Chinese) shoes and in his remaining toes, other went lost (we suppose) in a one too many mountain bath in winter. Andrey is the son of a meteorologist stories and tasty at the happy times of the Soviet Union, as such he looks as jailed in the city as he sweats freedom in the solitude of the mountains. Never seen someone so free� maybe in Into the wild? On the first day, we were whistling "L�homme de Cro, L�homme de Ma .... "The second day, we admired our first homo sovieticus, running to the top, trowing his 20kg bag down, and running again down to take ours; on the third, we were sure to deal with a force of nature. Although time goes by, it is worth mentioning that Andrey was until recently the real-unique sosie of � Johnny Depp.

Henry and Karel, two scouts (ok. 1 scout and 1 athlete). From Belgium (Moms, do not panic!). Gentlemen before the Lord. Always cheerful (I said do not panic!), singing in the morning, which, just after a nice "Wake up!" makes Viola burst out laughing and triggers the first" Mama mia! " of the day.

And us two. With our respective comparative advantages. Me and my double load and prayers. Bertille, her empty bottles, superhuman courage and brand-new feet that had to learn again how to walk (flexion, extension ... "as Florent Meurisse!"). So impressive, indeed� Just. Whaow.

History

We left after epic shopping, where we made a huge cheese-related mistake: as they all have exactly the same smoky disgusting taste for us snob French gourmets, we thought: ok let us take the cheapest one. Mistake. Mistake: GirRls you'rRe so selfish! You must buy for grRoup! Oooops. We finally chose thanks to the color: you like yellow? Ok let us take the yellow one. 25 kg of food, coat & sleeping bag tests later, we finally left.

We had not walked for 15 minutes when we stopped for swimming. Delicious instant and endless photo shooting which awarded us with a good place in the family album! 15 minutes later, same sketch. Let's swim. 15min again: same sketch! So we begin to doubt. Really swim? Not because we don�t like it but still, BUT because we still have 15 km to pass today. Guys! Let's swim! Collective gaze: it clearly isn�t a question. We let go with all the detachment imposed by the breathtaking beauty of the landscape and the quiet walk of the numerous goats & shepherds we meet.

Orientation

Except during the dedicated moments, ie. Somewhere between candies and �prost� (? Fish! Who has fish?) in the morning, during which Andrey gives us distance and altitude, any question about the road ahead is superfluous, and as such ignored or rewarded with a brief response: "enjoy" (sic!). So we walk, laugh... and enjoy! In the end, hopefully we had no idea of the road ahead on the 5th day!

Curiosities

Throat clearing sound of Andrey (will he spit? Or not?) that keeps surprising us, even after 5 days, in the morning as well as during the night ... ! Biggest source of laugh ever.

Religion

Since Stalin, religion no longer exists. Our two hosts are no exception to the rule. In fact, we dare suggest that Judaism is not only a nationality, but also a religion. On the contrary, energy of the Plateau is worth believing in: it had changed according to Andrey on our return: "I feel it." We nodded politely.

Sport

Swim! Walk! Eat! Sleep! 5 days. -10pounds. CQFD.

Multiculturalism

Meeting of all times ... Riddle: what is the most disingenuous people in history? (answer is above)

Women in Absurdistan

Just forget everything you learned about grace, distinction, class.

Wildlife

After 5 days, You are the must see specimen.

Maps

3D home-made. By Andrey who is also a cartographer, programmer and geologist.

Internet access

See "energy of the plateau"

Medical services

See "plants", "sport", because after 15 years, "it does more harm" to walk. Stimulator. And green tea.

Dangers and annoyances

Military zone everywhere except where you have to climb on foot.

Events

Noodle parties every morning two more if you are wise.

Sleeping

Budget: open air

Others: like night clubs in Iran: dream on.

Eating

Every 30 minutes. According reserves. And randomly. Announced by a thundering: "Who has ...? ... Candies! Fish! Meat! Porridge! Soup! Noodles! Chakchak! Grapes! Candies! (anything works indeed).

Drinking

Tap milk. Still warm from the cow. Also : inimitable enjoyment of morning porridge with meat.

Entertainment

Enjoying the moment

Taking pictures

Treasure hunting: for each vertex we reached, Viola did this: took one stone on the floor, completely randomly of course, and Oh! discovered a small pot, took the piece of paper that was inside and shouted, "Whaaaow, some hikers Went here Recently! "... and finally discovered the author: Andrey. We came across the only two athletes who dare climb these mountains.

Getting there and away

Air: military helicopters

Bus and microbus (only Russian speaking, comfort eating and if you smile Enough)

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